Wool is revered as one of the most versatile and valuable textiles, boasting a rich history and myriad uses in garments such as sweaters, coats, and jackets. Its unique composition makes it an ideal fabric for situations where cotton and other materials would falter.

In this article, we explore the waterproof qualities of wool, addressing common questions about its performance in wet conditions and highlighting additional characteristics that make it an excellent choice for both cold and damp climates.

Waterproof vs. Water-Resistant vs. Water-Repellent

To fully grasp the waterproof potential of wool, it’s important to understand the distinctions between the varying levels of water protection in outerwear. The terms “waterproof,” “water-resistant,” and “water-repellent” are often mistakenly used interchangeably, though they represent very different properties.

Waterproof

Waterproof garments provide the highest level of protection against water penetration, forming an impermeable barrier that prevents water from seeping into the fabric. These coats are designed to perform exceptionally well in harsh rain or snow and typically feature taped seams to reinforce vulnerable areas. Many waterproof jackets also integrate thermal membranes for added warmth and apply Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coatings for enhanced moisture resistance.

Water-Repellent

Water-repellent fabrics resist water penetration but aren’t entirely impervious to moisture. Garments crafted from water-repellent materials perform well under light rain or drizzle but may fail under more extreme conditions. Although they can be treated with additional DWR coatings to bolster protection, the absence of sealed seams leaves them susceptible to water seepage in heavy downpours.

Water-Resistant

The least protective of the three, water-resistant fabrics are designed to shield the wearer from mild moisture. These materials can also benefit from DWR coatings, encouraging water to bead on the surface and roll off rather than soaking through. However, prolonged exposure to significant rain or snow will likely overwhelm their protective properties, leading to eventual saturation.

Can wool be made waterproof?

When the natural lanolin in the wool fabric dissipates over time, you can increase the waterproofing qualities of a wool coat by applying an extra DWR coating. This helps the fabric better resist water penetrating the fibers.

If you add bound or taped seams in the manufacturing of a coat, you increase its waterproofing qualities significantly, especially when used in conjunction with DWR coating and a waterproof membrane.

If wool is not 100% waterproof, how does it keep you warm?

When water finds its way into the fibers of your favorite wool sweater or coat, it can actually help to keep you warm. Wool fabrics can hold up to 30% of their own weight in water. This is often from water trapped within the fibers, so you don’t actually feel wet.

This is another way wool can generate heat to help you stay warm. As water is adsorbed into the fabric’s molecules (rather than being absorbed between the fibers in the fabric), the moisture condenses and releases heat. That means that even if your wool coat gets exposed to water and some of the natural lanolin coatings have worn away, you can stay dry and warm longer.

How is waterproofing measured in outerwear?

When you purchase a wool jacket, you want to know how well it will retain heat and withstand water exposure. That’s why jackets are measured by their membrane capabilities on a scale from 5,000 - 20,000 mm. The larger the number, the more waterproof the jacket is.

Waterproofing ratings for jackets

MIA MELON HAILEY WATERPROOF WOOL COAT - PHOTO @shannonlsewell

Weatherproof: A Holistic Approach to Protection

The term "weatherproof" is frequently used in conjunction with "waterproof," yet it refers to a broader range of protection. A weatherproof garment is designed to withstand not only water but also other elements such as wind and snow, making it a more comprehensive shield against the forces of nature. For instance, the Lucia bonded herringbone raincoat exemplifies modern weatherproofing technology, combining waterproof and windproof properties in a lightweight and stylish design.

Is Wool Waterproof?

Wool is classified as water-repellent rather than waterproof, thanks to its natural coating of lanolin. This waxy substance, secreted by sheep, allows wool to shed water and protects it from environmental exposure. As wool is processed into fabric, it retains much of this hydrophobic property, offering natural water resistance.

However, it’s important to note that wool’s lanolin coating diminishes over time, reducing its ability to repel water. While untreated wool cannot be considered fully waterproof, applying DWR treatments during the manufacturing process can significantly enhance its water-resistance, creating a more durable barrier against moisture.

Does Wool Repel Water?

Wool fibers are composed of 97% protein and 3% lanolin, providing a natural defense against moisture. Even the finest wools exhibit this water-repellent quality, and with additional DWR treatments, wool garments can achieve heightened water resistance.

Can Wool Be Made Waterproof?

When wool’s natural lanolin begins to wear away, the application of a DWR coating can restore its waterproofing qualities. Furthermore, jackets designed with taped seams and waterproof membranes significantly bolster wool’s resistance to water, making it a viable option for outerwear in harsh conditions.

How Does Wool Keep You Warm Despite Water Exposure?

Wool has a remarkable ability to retain warmth even when exposed to moisture. It can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water without feeling wet to the touch. This is due to the wool’s ability to adsorb water into its fibers, releasing heat in the process. As a result, wool remains an excellent insulator, keeping you warm even if it gets damp.

Measuring Waterproofing in Outerwear

Waterproofing in jackets is typically measured by the fabric’s resistance to water pressure, rated on a scale of 5,000 to 20,000 mm. The higher the rating, the more waterproof the garment. Wool coats with additional waterproofing technology often fall within the higher range, making them suitable for heavy rain or snow.

Wearing Wool Coats in the Rain

Wool coats are a practical option for light to moderate rainfall, particularly those with enhanced weatherproofing technology. However, in heavy downpours, untreated wool will eventually become saturated, leading to water penetration and potential heat loss. Wool jackets with modern waterproofing solutions, such as those offered by Mia Melon, feature waterproof membranes and DWR coatings, allowing them to withstand heavier rainfall while maintaining warmth and comfort.

Wool as a Base Layer

Wool’s ability to regulate body temperature makes it an ideal choice for base layers. Its natural moisture-wicking properties help evaporate sweat and release heat, while its breathability ensures proper air circulation, preventing overheating.

Addressing the "Wet Dog" Smell

Wool’s animal origin means it may develop an unpleasant odor when wet, reminiscent of a “wet dog” smell. This scent primarily comes from lanolin and diminishes as the wool ages. Bacteria growing within the fibers can also contribute to this smell. To prevent unpleasant odors, wool garments should be thoroughly air-dried after exposure to moisture.

caring for Wool Coats

Wool’s antimicrobial and stain-resistant properties reduce the need for frequent washing. When cleaning is necessary, hand washing with a specialized wool detergent is recommended. After washing, avoid direct heat and instead, air dry the garment flat to prevent shrinking or damage.

Protecting Wool Coats in Storage

When storing wool garments during the off-season, it’s essential to safeguard them from pests and discoloration. Mothballs or cedar can repel insects, and placing wool items in sealed garment bags adds an extra layer of protection.

Wool Coats at Mia Melon: Style Meets Performance

Mia Melon combines the natural benefits of wool with cutting-edge waterproof technology to create jackets that are both fashionable and functional. By bonding recycled wool blends to waterproof membranes and insulating them with eco-friendly materials, Mia Melon’s outerwear offers superior protection from the elements without compromising on style. DWR treatments and micro-fleece liners further enhance these garments' performance, keeping wearers warm, dry, and comfortable.

If you’re in the market for a new jacket to retain heat, stay dry and look great this winter season, check out the collection of wool weatherproof jackets from Mia Melon today.